Time to explore what we missed out on last time.
Just under a year ago we visited historical Bishop Auckland and had a lovely time checking out the amazing Faith Museum and Auckland Tower.
This time round, with our annual passes still active, we explored more of what the Auckland Project has to offer. Starting with the Spanish Gallery through to Auckland Palace and then a yomp around the Deer Park.
A little splash of autumnal colour here and there made things even prettier.
All photos shot on my Google Pixel 9 Pro XL in RAW 50 MP mode. RAWs developed in Lightroom, merged in Photomatix, then edited and finalised in Photoshop.
Billing itself as “the UK’s first gallery dedicated to the art and culture of the Spanish Golden Age”, the Spanish Gallery features one of the UK’s largest collections of Spanish art during the 1500 and 1600s from the likes of El Greco, Murillo, Zurbarán, and Velázquez.
Within Gallery 1 on the ground floor this incredible room opens out, with paintings seemingly glowing against deep navy and ruby tones. This room explores the themes of “eternal devotion” found in Spanish art during the golden age, and how spiritual devotion was inspired and expressed.
An interesting composition I was able to capture featuring a sculpture of St. Bartholomew and his reflection. The sculpture was made by Bernabé de Gaviria, between 1600―1622 CE. He was said to be flayed alive for converting King Polimius and his family to Christianity.
From the next floor up, a cracking view down to the room of devotion can be achieved, especially if one is equipped with an ultra-wide angle lens.
In a room titled “The Good Die Young” paintings and sculptures are reverently displayed, all by artists in the Spanish Golden Age who died younger than 40-years old.
On the top floor a facsimile of Grenadan Spain is brought to life through photogrammetry, digital 3D printing and handcrafting. Terracota floors and Moorish tiling put visitors 400 years into the past, where the likes of Velázquez learned their trade.
The work of this reproduction by Factum Arte is astounding. Renaissance wall tiles, carved architectural plasterwork or yesería , elaborate geometric-patterned timber ceilings, sculptures, a tabernacle and a tomb.
A 3D printed reproduction of Berruguete’s Sepulchre of Cardinal Tavera . The original white marble sepulchre was the final commission of the sculptor Alonso Berruguete – it was made in 1552 for the Hospital of San Juan Batista (better known as the Hospital Tavera) in Toledo, Spain.
Leaving the Spanish Gallery we made our way towards Auckland Palace (formerly Auckland Castle) but not before peeping over the walls to see the now-completed Walled Garden. A beautiful sight!
Inside Auckland Palace, home of County Durham’s Prince Bishops, we first made our way to the Chapel of St. Peter, which was much more impressive than expected. Originally built as a great hall around 1190 CE, it was converted into a chapel for Bishop Cosin between 1661–65.
The Throne Room of Auckland Palace. The bishop of Durham held a unique position of power after the Norman Conquest of 1066. His loyalty to the English king allowed him to function as a virtually autonomous ruler, with the authority to raise armies, mint coins, and levy taxes. This autonomy came with the responsibility of safeguarding England’s northern border against Scotland. In essence, the bishop of Durham became a “prince-bishop”, reaping the benefits of his territory while remaining mindful of his duty to protect the realm.
The Long Dining Room, a testament to Bishop Trevor. He was a more liberal bishop and a supporter of the Jewish Naturalisation Act 1753 during a time of anti-Jew views in the UK. This interest in Jewish causes is reflected in his purchase in 1756 of 12 paintings by the 17th-century Spanish artist Zurbarán from a series known as Jacob and His Twelve Sons , depicting the Old Testament patriarch Jacob and his sons.
The castle gateway, using the archway as a frame for Auckland Tower in the distance. The gateway was built in 1760 by Sir Thomas Robinson of Rokeby for Bishop William Trevor. By contrast, Auckland Tower was built in 2017. The form of the tower is intended to echo lightweight provisional structures that would’ve been used by invaders to breach castle walls.
Heading back towards Market Place I spy one more composition towards the Mining Art Gallery, as soft afternoon light illuminates the buildings.